Things to Consider Before Getting Started

Before you install marble floors, find out what your budget will be and how much you can spend as marble can be $4 – $5 per square foot. But if you go with a tile from an unfamiliar location it could be up to $75 or more per square foot. Most home improvement stores usually run between $5 – $20 per square foot. Buy or rent a wet saw with a diamond blade. You will need this as natural stone is more difficult to cut.

List Of Things You’ll Need

  • Marble Tiles
  • Thinset mortar (adhesive for tiles)
  • Cement board Sheets (also called hardy boards)
  • 1 1/4-inch drywall board screws
  • Drill with Philipe head bit for screws
  • 6-inch drywall knife
  • Tape measure
  • Chalk line
  • Pencil
  • Tile spacers
  • Rubber mallet
  • Wet saw
  • Diamond-tipped hole saw (if needed)
  • utility knife
  • Foam brush
  • Marble tile and grout sealer
  • Grout
  • Grout float
  • Group sponge
  • Cement board joint tape
  • Straight 2×4 board

Get The Floor Ready

Before laying the marble tiles you will need to have smooth floors. If there were any tiles are any other type of flooring down you will need to remove that to the subfloor which is usually the plywood or cement. Next, lay down the cement board (hardy board) and screw these down with the drywall screws. This will help add moisture resistance to the floor as well as make it stiffer. Thin-set mortar adhesive will bond very well to the cement board as that’s what it was engineered to do.

Make Reference Marks (lines)

Rather than starting abruptly from one of the walls, your installation will look better if you create reference lines on the surface of the cement board so that the tiles radiate outward from the center of the room. Find the center of two opposing walls using a chalk line or laser if have access to one of those to divide the room in half. Now measure to the center of that line. Next, use a T-square to draw a perpendicular line at the mark using a pencil. Now you can snap the chalk line across the floor using the pencil line as a guide. You now should have four equal squares on your floor.

Mix and Spread the Mortar

According to the manufacturer’s instructions found on the bag, mix the thin-set mortar. Do not mix a lot, only a little bit at a time. You can always mix more as you need it. Starting where the reference lines intersect at the center of the room use the notched trowel to spread the adhesive onto the floor. If your tiles are 12 inches square and smaller a 1/4-inch trowel will create large enough grooves. But if you have much larger tiles you’ll want to use a 1/2-inch notched trowel to create wider deeper grooves in the adhesive.

Putting Down the First Tile

Spread the mortar (enough to cover the full tile once laid down on top of the mortar) making sure to the entire surface is notched. Align two of the tile’s edges with the chalk lines in the corner of the layout and gently press the first tile into place. While pressing down on the tile, gently twist the tile so that it properly sets in the mortar.

Using a Rubber Mallet to set the Tile

Rubber mallets have soft rubber heads, but you still don’t want to hit the tiles too hard with this. You should lightly tap the surface of the marble tile to press it firmly into the mortar.

Installing the Remaining Tiles

Use a 2×4 board to ensure the tiles are a uniform height after placing every three or four tiles down. If the tiles are not uniform in height you can use the rubber mallet to tap on the 2×4 until everything looks level. Again, remember you are tapping lightly, you don’t hit so hard that you might crack the marble. You can also do this across multiple rows once you have enough laid down. Also, a quick tip is if your marble is polished you can put down a piece of carpet under the board to prevent scratches. As you reach the wall take note of the gap at the end, this may require a custom-cut piece. Now move back to the center of the room and use the reverence lines to continue to put tiles adjacent to the first row of marble you laid down. After every few tiles you set down make sure to overlook the floor to see if all your lines are lining up to will ensure that your floor looks sharp and consistent in the end. Be sure to leave yourself a traffic path so that you don’t tile yourself into a corner. Tiles need to be set for at least 48 hours before stepping on them.

Cutting Tiles with a Wet Saw

DIYers usually rent one from Lowes or Home Depot or the local big lumber store that rents out tools. However, you can buy a small one for under $100 so the choice is yours. Smaller saws can handle cuts on tile up to 12 inches. If you need to cut holes in the tile for your plumbing pipes coming up through the floor you will have to use a special hole saw that has diamond blades on the tips. These hole saws can be attached to a power drill. Use a slow speed when cutting and you may also want to have a glass of water handy where someone can pour a bit of water as you cut so that the tile does not crack.

Remove Unwanted Mortar

If any excess mortar oozed up from the gaps of the tiles, you can use a utility knife or paint stick to remove it. Once all the tiles are installed you’ll want to follow the manufacturer’s directions on the bags on the drying times. So do not walk on the tiles until the adhesive is completely dry.

Sealing the Marble

To prevent permanent stains from occurring you will want to seal the tiles with a high-quality marble tile sealant before you grout the tiles. Grout can badly stain the marble tiles if it is applied before the marble tiles are sealed. To apply a thin coat of sealant you can use a foam brush to smooth out puddles or tiny bubbles. To create a strong protective layer you can seal the floor 2-3 times allowing each coat to dry before applying a new one. You may need to reseal the tile every 6-12 months depending on the amount of traffic you get.

Grouting the Tile

Depending on the grout you bought be sure to read the back of the bag and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on mixing the grout. As with ceramic tile, use unsanded grout if the joints are 1/8-inch wide or less; used sanded grout for wider joints. As with the mortar, mix only as much as you can apply in about 15 or 20 minutes—the point where the grout starts to set up. Force the grout into the joints using a sweeping motion with a grout float at a 45-degree angle. Make sure the seams between the tiles are fully packed with grout and wipe up any excess that gets on the tiles.

Clean the Tiles by Wiping

Using a large damp grout sponge, focus your efforts on removing grout on the surface of the tiles only. Dip the sponge in a bucket of water to clean it and wring it out until it is slightly damp again. As you wipe the surface of the marble tiles clean be careful not to allow any moisture to seep down into the grout line, as this can thin the mix or even wash it out.

Sealing the Grout

Make sure to check the manufacturer’s recommended waiting time before sealing the grout. You can seal the grout with a foam brush using the manufacturer’s directions. Congratulations, you just put down your first marble floor!

If you want to know the proper way to clean a marble floor you can read about it here.

We hope these tips help you out and be sure to drop by Acadiana Marble in Broussard Louisiana at 110 N Bernard Dr, Broussard, LA 70518, or give us a call at +1 (337) 330-2527. Check out our Facebook for daily updates!

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